To Serge or Not to Serge: Some Things are Best Left to Your Sewing Machine

To serge or not to serge? Sergers and sewing machines are a match made in creative heaven, but sometimes it’s hard to decide which one to use for a specific job. When used together as intended, both machines will not only save you time and extra steps, they’ll help you produce gorgeous, professional-grade garments or other projects. So where do you draw the line when it comes to choosing which machine to use on which step?

While coverstitch machines and certain high-end sergers include a coverstitch capability, not everyone can afford one of these expensive machines. Some late model sewing machines offer a “serger” attachment, but you’re still sewing with a single needle and there are no blades to trim away the fabric’s raw edges. Each machine is designed for its own specific purpose – and some jobs demand you use one or the other.

The Big Differences

While both types of machines are similar in that they’re designed to secure two layers or types of fabric together, their capabilities, purposes, and machinery differ widely.

Sewing Machines

Anyone who sews knows that plenty of prep work is necessary when using a sewing machine to construct a garment or complete a project. These machines are limited in the fact that they only employ one needle and two threads. Plus, on older models, the number of available stitch options is limited.

While newer sewing machine models can reach impressive stitching speeds, most home models are only capable of reaching about 800 stitches per minute. The work area on a sewing machine is typically spacious, which allows you to work on either side of the needle.

Sergers

These machines are far more specialized than traditional sewing machines. One of the biggest, and most time saving differences is that a serger trims the fabric ends as it sews. While sewing machines produce good seams, a serger’s overlock stitch is considered stronger and more durable. A serger creates a lockstitch which encloses fabric ends using three to five threads and two or three needles. Those extra thread cones and needles also allow a serger to create a wide range of strong, protective stitches.

A traditional serger can produce between 1,300 to 1,700 stitches per minute, which allows you to breeze through projects. However, unless your serger includes a free arm feature, the work area is typically far smaller than one on a sewing machine, allowing you to sew only to the left of the needles. Sergers are also unique in that their multiple-thread stitches prevent all types of fabrics from fraying.

The Best Uses for Each

While sewists experienced in using sergers often use these machines to do some of the work usually done on sewing machines, there are certain tasks that can only be accomplished on one or the other. For example, while it is possible to sew a zipper into a garment using a serger, why bother? It’s far easier to use your sewing machine. And nothing but a sewing machine works better when attaching facings, creating buttonholes, and topstitching.

In addition to being able to sew at very high speeds, a serger alone can put a beautiful finish on cleanly cut fabric edges. This capability becomes invaluable if you enjoy working with sheer fabrics or lightweight knits that look best with perfectly rolled hems, lettuce edges, or durable seams that move with the fabric.

Sometimes Both Can Do It

While both machines have their specialties, they’re also capable of doing the same jobs. Sergers and sewing machines can be used to create perfect ruffles, gathers and pintucks, add piping and other decorative garnishes to garments and sewing projects, and to create smooth, straight seams and hems.

If sewing is more than a hobby or an occasional necessity or if you prefer to create your own garments, home décor and projects, a sewing machine is a must. It you want to expand your creative skills and produce professional-grade results, so is a serger.