Serger Stitch on a Sewing Machine
Whether you’re new to sewing or have yet to purchase your machine, it’s important to be aware of just what some of the stitch options on your machine can accomplish – especially if you plan to put a professional finish on garments and other sewing projects. Newer sewing machine models include an often-bewildering array of stitch options, many of which feature multiple hundreds of them. But there’s no need to run out and invest in an expensive serger if your machine can produce one or more overlock-type stitches.
What is the Overlock/Overcast Stitch?
Unlike overlock stitch options on a serger, which can involve multiple threads, the overlock/overcast stitch on a sewing machine is always limited to two threads. It’s simply a combination of zigzag and straight stitches. If sewn correctly, the finished result does resemble a serger overlock most often used to finish store-bought and professionally tailored garments.
Tip: Always trim your seam allowances as evenly as possible before using the overlock stitch, as your sewing machine won’t do it for you. And ignore the standard seam allowance width commonly found on garment patterns. Trimming each fabric edge to at least 1/4-inch will produce cleaner stitches while giving you a more professional result.
Three Ways to Use the Overlock/Overcast Stitch
- If you plan to finish a garment or other project with open seams, you can overlock each seam allowance separately. This technique doesn’t work well with sheer and lightweight fabrics that aren’t strong enough to hold their own against the overlock stitch on their own.
- The second method of overlocking is to line up both seam edges and stitch them at the same time. This gives you better control – especially over lightweight fabrics.
- When sewing curved seams, it’s necessary to take your time. Stitch slowly and stop when needed to gently turn the fabric and realign the fabric edges. This can be time consuming but will give you better results.
Always take care when removing your fabric from the machine, as the guide bar on the presser foot can catch the last few stitches or tear more delicate fabrics, ruining your work. It’s best to pull the finished fabric straight back to the rear of the machine to release it before cutting thread ends.
Stitch Options for Finishing Seams
When buying a new sewing machine, always check to see if the two following stitch options are included if you want to put a more professional finish on seam edges. If you’ve already purchased a machine, read your manual to see what stitches are included.
- Overlock/Overcast: This stitch seams while overcasting seam and fabric edges. It’s the closest stitch to a true serged overlock stitch that you’ll find on a sewing machine. The stitch is made of a single line of zigzag stitches bordered on either side by straight lines of stitches.
- Double Overedge: This stitch is most often used for finishing seam edges on fabrics that tend to fray. It’s somewhat stronger that an overlock stitch and works best on gabardines and linens. The stitch contains a double row of zigzag stitches bordered on both sides by straight lines of stitches that are sewn over the fabric edge to prevent seams from unraveling.
While it’s often more difficult to use these overlock stitches on lightweight or sheer fabrics, it can be done if you back the fabric first with a stabilizer to prevent it from being snagged by the feed dogs. Another trick is to overlock both seam edges together.
The Overlock/Overcast Presser Foot
While you can produce an acceptable overlock stitch using a standard zigzag presser foot, purchasing a specially designed overlock foot will give you more professional results. This type of presser foot includes a guide bar that helps you sew right up to the fabric edge. The zigzag porting of each stitch actually moves slightly off the fabric edge, which encloses it. Without this foot, each stitch will merely follow the edge of the seam allowances without enclosing them. You’ll never get a true serged seam using this foot, but if your machine includes this accessory option, it’s well worth the investment. There are several different types of these presser feet available, either designed specifically to fit your sewing machine model or universal feet that will fit different sewing machine brands and models.
When it comes to finishing seams, it’s vital to do it right to produce the best results. Don’t overlook this important option if you plan to produce professional results. Even some of the most basic sewing machine models have a decent selection of mock overlock stitch options. Not all home sewists want, need or can afford a serger. Zigzag stitches have specific uses but why bother when you can use an overlock/overcast presser foot?