How To Serge A Hem
Don’t be intimidated by the serger. Once you get the hang of it, hemming with a serger is faster and cleaner than hand sewing or using your regular machine.
This method works on all types of fabric, including thin and delicate materials such as chiffon and georgette. Read on to find out how to serge a hem.
Step by Step Instructions on How To Serge A Hem
1. Cut off the excess fabric above the hem using a pair of scissors or a rotary cutter and mat. Press the new seam allowance to one side as shown. You can use your iron if you prefer, but test it on a scrap first because many synthetic fabrics will melt with too much heat.
2. Set the serger to a 3-thread overlock stitch and adjust the stitch length to 3.5. If you’re right-handed, start with the presser foot on your left and hold your material against the right side of the machine (if you’re using a double needle, load it like an ordinary sewing machine).
The needle will run off the edge of your fabric; don’t let it cut into the needle plate or you’ll damage your machine.
3. Hold your material against the right side of the machine and carefully push the material with your fingers until it gets sucked in by the feed dogs at the back (if you’re using a double needle, make sure both threads loop around the bobbin hook at exactly the same time).
4. Adjust the stitch length as you sew to create a wider 3-thread overlock stitch. Make sure you turn your hand wheel toward you as shown so that the needle doesn’t slide from side to side – this helps prevent puckering on the right side of the fabric.
5. Continue stitching along your hem, adjusting the stitch length as you go, until the needle is about an inch from the point where it will run off the edge of your material. At this point, stop and lift up your presser foot to release the stitches so they remain intact without being squashed by the pressure of the presser foot.
6. To finish the hem, simply tuck the raw edge under so it sits against the wrong side of your fabric and re-thread your serger with an overlock stitch, adjusting the width to 3mm (if you’re right handed, start by placing your material under the presser foot on the left; if you’re using a double needle, thread both needles before loading).
7. Hold the threads to the back and carefully lower the presser foot so it stitches over the raw edge of your material (if you’re using a double needle, make sure both needles loop around the bobbin hook at exactly the same time).
8. Continue stitching the hem from where you had originally stopped, adjusting the stitch length as you go.
9. When you’re about 1/2 inch from the end of your hemline, stop stitching and cut your threads free from your machine. Hand sew a knot with your remaining thread to secure it on the wrong side of your fabric and trim off any remaining excess thread.
FAQ
What if my hem comes out uneven?
Make sure your fabric is feeding evenly through the machine and that you’re sewing straight along the edge of your material.
Will it work on thicker fabrics such as denim?
If you’re working with a heavier weight fabric, carefully lower the presser foot just enough to hold your fabric in place and then use your fingers to guide it along.
Will it work on silk or other delicate fabrics?
Delicate fabrics are best treated with an overlock machine, but if you do want to try this method, make sure your serger is set to the smallest needle hole (best viewed from behind). Use very little pressure on the fabric and make sure you don’t cut off your stitches when you release the needle from your machine.
Why does the stitch go all wonky on me?
Make sure there’s a clean thread in your bobbin and that it hasn’t run out of thread – this will cause your stitches to bunch up or get all twisty.
If you’re using a double needle, make sure both threads loop around the bobbin hook at exactly the same time. If you’re using an overlock stitch on your serger, make sure the machine is threaded and set correctly (check your manual for details).
My thread keeps breaking or skipping stitches, why does this happen?
Ensure there’s a clean thread in your bobbin and that it hasn’t run out of thread; this can cause your stitches to bunch up or get all twisty.
Make sure you’re using the correct needle on your machine – it should be fine for regular sewing but have a very sharp point for topstitching. If you’re using an overlock stitch on your serger, make sure the machine is threaded and set correctly (check your manual for details).
Conclusion
Sewing a hem can be tricky, but with the right techniques and supplies you’ll have it done in no time. Make sure to use your hand wheel towards you so that the needle doesn’t slide from side to side – this helps prevent puckering on the right side of the fabric.
You may need to adjust your stitch length periodically as well based on how thick your fabric is. If sewing delicate fabrics like silk or denim, make sure you’re using an overlock machine rather than trying this method which requires more pressure when stitching through heavier materials.